Aguille du Midi is a mountain in Cahmonix, France. It holds a very dear spot in my heart.
We had been to Chamonix twice before. The first time, we had to turn a planned attempt of the Tour du Mont Blanc into a series of day hikes due to snow levels. The second time we embarked on our great adveture of the Tour du Mont Blanc. Now, on our current adventure, we returned to Chamonix years later.
At this point in our journey, we had three solid weeks of hiking in the mountains under our belt. I had struggled in Gstaad. With two solid weeks of hiking in the mountains, when we first arrived, I was tired. So tired. The first hike was tough, but then I found my flow. Gstaad turned out to be our best climbing week at that point in the trip.
When we moved on to Chamonix, all the ions in my body were vibrating with excitement. This would be our third time in Chamonix.
You know when you go to a place thinking it can’t possibly be as beautiful as the first time you saw it, but then it is? That’s Chamonix for me.
It’s a lovely French town in the very core of some spectacular mountains. We revisited some hikes and explored some new ones.
The fourth day was special. We climbed Aguille du Midi. As I said, this mountain is very near and dear to my heart. The first time we visited Chamonix, we attempted to climb this trail twice. The first time, the snow was too much for me to handle along a certain ridge. The second time, enough snow had melted that we were able to get to the top despite the last section of trail being completely buried by snow. It was cloudy and cold and we couldn’t see much at the top. Both times were emotional experiences for me.
Now, back here again, with no snow in the way, we began our ascent. It was tough. The trail starts with straight up fuck you up for quite a while. Eventually, there is some relief, but not for long as each short section of relief is soon followed by more straight up. This climb is one to be taken seriously. I slogged my way up, slowly watching the meters of ascent increase.
It was hard. But I wanted it. I was deep into a zone, each day getting up, lacing up my boots, and hiking up a mountain.
When I saw a refuge, I thought, “Oh yes, we are almost there.” I soon realized that, of course, we were not. My memory reminded me that the very top is right next to a cable car station. I looked up at the rocky switchbacks, winding up the impressive incline. Buck up, Jules. You got more climbing to do. And I did. I kept putting one boot in front of the other, huffing, puffing, and slogging it out.
That’s the way. Simply focus on your steps, traversing one step at a time.
The last section after the Refuge is more exposed. I thought back to climbing it straight up in the snow. This time, I got to experience the full path.
As I reached the top, the view of a spectacular mountain range opened up beofe my eyes. The sun gleamed off the snow capped peaks. It was glorious. We didn’t get to see this the last time. It was cloudy and cold.

This time, I sat down on a patio bathed in sunshine and stared up in awe at the mountains. My heart swelled. It was such a feeling of elation.
Hubby went into the hut and emerged with two beers brewed with d’leau de la montagne and sandwiches made with local cheese. Omg. Could this moment get any better?

I thought back to the first time we came here and hiked these mountains. I did the hikes. But there was a lot of fear, anxiety, worry. Don’t get me wrong, I think that will always be part of the journey for me when I’m pushing myself and moving into uncomfortable spaces. I had experienced moments of that during this trip.
But, since we’d been in Chamonix this time, each day, I got up, laced up my boots, and climbed a mountain. I hadn’t been thinking, can I do this? I did think, wow, this is hard, and omg, this is steep. Of course I did. But I never stopped putting one boot in front of the other. I never doubted I would make it. I simply did it.
I loved that feeling.
Basking in the sunshine, sipping my beer and savoring the mountain cheese and fresh bread, I sunk into the moment. I took in the feeling of being right beside this massive mountain range. I relished in the fact that I had gotten here with my own two feet.

It feels pretty good to work at something day after day, year after year, and reach a moment where you realize, OK, I’ve got this. Even for this moment.


















It all started with a hike up the remote pilgrimage mountain —
The crowds thinned as we made our way up the longer route. I pushed my pace to a fairly unreasonable rate up the winding staircases when Golden Boy — with his young skin, shirtless ripped torso and blond hair — thought he could pass me. Sorry about your luck. This little girl with pig tails and a back pack can push until her insides scream with the right motivation.
The icing on the cake, the last bit of melting my heart, was the hike away from the crowds, up a deserted path to a peak that looked down upon the bamobo forest and monkey park. We sat on a makeshift bench of logs and relished in the chorus of birds and insects. Nature’s music.
After hiking and meditating in the mountains all day, and taking in the sites, we developed a routine of enjoying the amazing happy hour at our hotel.
At night we explored the rather inique and interesting areas of Gion and Pontocho. By the end of our four days, we had gotten the hang of finding the more authentic restaurants and Japanese whiskey bars. It was truly amazing being the only white people in a joint.

As I sit here on this train, my heart is a little tender. I fell in love with Kyoto. I don’t want to leave. I know I’ll be back.

As per our experience so far, every local person we encountered went out of their way to make sure we were on the right track.As soon as we stepped into the forest and started our trek up the trail, my inner being sunk into a peaceful energy. The climb started immediately and it was steep! I fell into that old pattern of finding my flow. The one where my physical, mental and spiritual beings all align with each other, and with nature.
The sounds of nature sung around us. We relished in the squeaking of monkeys and the otherwise silence. Occassionally the trees would crack and creak in the breeze.No people. No buildings. Just us, the monkeys and the forest.The trail had many steep stretches. It was hard work, but it felt good. I fell into the rhythm I knew well. My husband told me of the 1000 day challenge. The trail is a pilgrimage path, and monks do it every day for 1000 days, fasting for 10 consecutive days during the challenge. I couldn’t believe it. I thought I was working hard.
Reaching the peak was rewarding. The view was stunning. We rested and had a picnic. No fasting for me.The real reward, however, was quite unexpected. A little more hiking took us to the Dai Ko-do temple (beside Bell Tower). We removed our boots, slid the door open and entered. We sat cross legged. I closed my eyes and breathed in deeply. The scent of incense filled me. It calmed me. My mind was clear.
Before leaving, I participated in the purchase (by donation) of an incense stick that you light and place in a bowl among others. It is intended to be in memory of someone. I took a moment for silent reflection.
The descent was awesome. There was a bus that took us down the mountain and within blocks of our hotel!A shower and happy hour were waiting for us. The zen feeling lasted into the evening. Now I’m going to crave meditation on every mountain peak.